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Summer Flowers and the Frogs


Okay, so the title may have gotten you to read about one of my
favorite secret shortcuts (that a lot of people don't really know
about), but if you like fresh flowers, I think you will find it worth while.
Flowers go along way to making any room or office cheerful and "Flower
Frogs" make it super easy!


Very popular in the 20's and 30's, these little helpers can help
you arrange flowers from your garden or the market with ease. 
Just snip to size and poke your flower through the holes.

Where the term "frog" came from is an unsolved mystery.  You may
know them better as flower holders, floral arrangers, or flower
blocks.  Whatever you call them, they are incredibly easy to use.

Glass and ceramic ones have holes.  Metal ones are often a crosshatch
of wire.  And today's technology has figurals (like our Cupcake Frogs)
are made of easy to clean and unbreakable silicone.

Now that you know my decorating secret for fresh flowers, go
bring some cheer to your home, office, or friend!


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Haviland China - Prominent Porcelain Manufacturer

We love Haviland china and you can find it often in our Broken China Jewelry pieces and thought you would enjoy its fascinating history.  --Kim
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Although many people think of the manufacturer Haviland as being French, it was actually a very determined American gentleman who started the first Haviland porcelain factory. David Haviland was a partner at the New York company of D.G. & D. Haviland Trading. They were importers of fine English and French tableware during the early 1800s. After being asked by a customer to match an exceptionally fine but broken porcelain teacup, Mr. Haviland was determined to find out where such an exemplary piece of porcelain had been produced.

After several journeys throughout France, Mr. Haviland found that the cup came from a factory in Foecy, north of the region of Limoges. He promptly ordered several tea sets to be sent to America, but when the products finally arrived, surprisingly they were not up to the standard demanded by the meticulous Mr. Haviland.

Even after all this effort and cost, this gentleman was not to be deterred. He relocated his whole family from America to the Limoges area of France in 1841. The savvy Mr. Haviland selected this region as it had an abundance of the main ingredient required to make superior porcelain, namely "kaolin" clay.

While this type of clay was available in many places, none could match the spectacular quality that he encountered near his new home. The kaolin in this area produced the whitest "eggshell" type of translucent porcelain that Mr. Haviland had seen since first laying eyes on that broken teacup. He was determined to be the first to introduce such porcelain to America.

From the moment he setup his new business in France, the Haviland China factory was a groundbreaking operation. Instead of allowing Paris based artists to decorate the china as had always been the case, Mr. Haviland set up an artist's studio within the factory to produce patterns he felt would be in demand by the Americans, not the French.

His refusal to stick to traditional French methods caused an uproar in his factory but, in 1842, the first shipment of Haviland porcelain was finally ready to be sent off to America.

It took some time, but eventually the hardheaded Mr. Haviland became highly respected by the French for his superior products. Larger quantities of porcelain began to be produced, more than had ever been produced before within the Limoges area. The trade to America was a huge success.

In 1872 David Haviland's son, Charles, opened a studio in Paris that produced the famous Haviland Barbotine. The innovative idea of painting onto earthenware with liquid "slip," another form of clay, went so far as to pique the interest of leading artists of the time to include both Monet and Manet.

David Haviland died in 1879 after which an intense rivalry broke out between his two sons, Charles and Theodore. This resulted in them each creating their own individual and successful porcelain factories. Charles operated under Haviland & Company and Theodore as Theodore Haviland.

Some years later, 1907 to 1924, Charles Haviland's son Jean began his own separate company in Bavaria under the name of Johann Haviland. Bavaria was one of the other locations that had access to the much needed kaolin clay. However his efforts were no where near as long lasting as those of his grandfather, father and uncle.

Shortly thereafter, the company Charles had started was unable to survive the crash of 1929. Charles had passed away earlier in 1921 so his company was already somewhat in jeopardy prior to the crash. William Haviland, Theodore's son, was able to obtain all the necessary rights to Charles' Haviland & Company. This resulted in the two primary Haviland companies merging back into one later on under the ownership of William.

Today it is thought that more than fifty-five thousand patterns were produced during the rein of the Haviland family. Recognized for its beauty and exceptional quality, Haviland china is still a very popular collectible here and now in the 21st century. Like some other original founders of famous companies, such as Wedgwood and Royal Doulton, Haviland changed the face of porcelain forever.

Anne Benedetto is a former auction house owner and former dealer in the antiques and collectibles business. She presently provides people with important details, behind the scenes information, helpful tips and first hand knowledge of the brick and mortar auction business. Visit Anne at http://AuctionHouseTalk.com which is an interactive site where interested people can talk about the ins and outs of auctions, antiques and collectibles.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anne_Benedetto

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Onsite Engraving at RBC!
Take your gift giving to a whole new level!

See Engraving Category for information!

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Swarovski Birthstone Chart

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  1. Clean the item that you are decal to so there is no dust or dirt.
  2. Cut the decal out.  If you don’t mind a little clear shadow around your decal decoration, you don’t have to cut closely. 
  3. Immerse the decal into a shallow bowl/pan of water.  Let it soak for about 60-90 seconds or until the backing paper releases from the decal.  Don’t let it soak too long.
  4. Slide the decal on to your item. 
  5.  “Squeegee” with a damp sponge or lint free towel.  Move from the center to the edge to remove water and bubbles.
  6.  I usually let the piece sit for about an hour or two to get any last bits of water dried out.  Don’t wait too long or theedges may become very dry and curl. 
  7. Spray with a gloss spray like Krylon.  Use light coats.  I usually do about 3 or 4.       

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Furniture & Frame Old World Onlays Instructions

 

Tools You'll Need for Steaming:

Steaming screen: Cloth (like an old sheet) stretched over a wood frame and stapled to the frame. You can also use the spatter screens from the Dollar Store. They cover frying pans and are meant to keep grease from spraying all over.

Pan, 12-inches or larger, for holding water. Steaming screen should be made to fit over your pan. You can also use a large bowl in a microwave.

Dull knife and spatula to pick up the heated ornaments.

Microwave, Portable electric burner or a burner on a stove.

Optional: X-Acto or sharp knife to cut the heated ornaments.

Steaming Instructions:

Fill your pan a little less than half full with water. Cover the top of the pan with your steaming screen and heat the water in the pan to a LOW steady steam. A gentle steam is all that is needed. Do not boil the water. You can also use your microwave to heat your water to the steaming point. Just don't put any metal screens or anything like that into the microwave.

Before steaming the ornaments, determine exactly where the onlay will be placed. Make sure that the surface is free of dust, grease and dirt. I like to make my placement marks with a pencil.

As the water heats and starts to steam, your steaming screen will get wet. A damp steaming screen is important because the hot moisture is what activates the glue. It helps to brush the steaming surface with water to add moisture. This should be done at the start of your project and then as needed throughout. When you have a gentle steam, place one piece of onlay at a time, flat side down, on top of the damp steaming screen.

Leave the onlay on the screen for approximately 30 seconds to two minutes depending on the thickness and age of the piece. Test the underneath side. If the bottom is wet and slick and the piece is pliable, it's ready. If the onlay is not ready, leave it on the steaming screen a little longer. This is a feel thing that you can only learn by doing but one that you'll pick up quickly.

When the onlay is ready, lift it gently off the screen. Properly warmed onlay is sturdy enough to pick up by hand but also flexible enough to bend without breaking or cracking. It's similar to undercooked pasta except not as slippery. If you prefer you can pick up the onlay with a thin painters spatula or dull knife. Lay it carefully where you want it, judging the spacing, and simply press it firmly but gently into place. (Don't press real hard or you will leave your finger prints!) Be sure to check all the edges to make sure they are all pressed down and bonded to the surface. Any onlay residue on your project or on the ornament itself can be brushed away with a paint brush and water. This is an extra step that will make for a great finished look.

IF YOU OVER STEAM THE ONLAY and it becomes too soft to handle, remove it from the steam as best you can and lay it design side down, slick side up to dry and harden. When it's firm again, re-steam and start over.

Onlay is very flexible and easy to cut with a knife. Use a very short, strong bladed knife. The onlay can be cut apart, combined with other designs and laid out in different arrangements. Breakage? No problem. These easily can be "restuck."

The onlay sets very quickly. If necessary, within 10 minutes of application, an ornament can be removed with a putty knife. Clean the surface where it was applied with water. The ornament that was removed can be re-steamed and used again. All tools and onlay residue can be washed away with warm water and soap.

When the onlay has cooled and is dry, you can paint your project with your favorite finish. Once finished, the onlay endures for many decades. If you are applying an onlay to a finished piece or you want the ornament to have a different finish, you can finish the ornament before steaming it and then apply it.

CAUTION: When steamed, the onlay becomes quite pliable and can be stretched. Take care when applying the ornaments not to stretch them beyond their original size, which could cause slight variations in the layout of your design.


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How to Open & Close a Jumpring

You will need 2 pair of pliers. 

1) Hold the jumpring with the two pliers and the split in the ring at 12:00.

2) To open the jumpring, push one pair of pliers toward you and the other pair away from you.

Reverse the steps to close the jumpring.

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Size & Comparisons for

Broken China Jewelry & Buttons

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